Sharmila on Food

Okutan, Kyoto

After the crazy, sensory overload of Tokyo, we set off on the bullet train (exciting) to Kyoto.  This was even more exciting because the Gion Matsuri festival was happening in Kyoto when we were there.  This is one of the largest street festivals in the world, along with Rio and Notting Hill.  It was brilliant.  We got to see lots of beautiful, traditional Japanese floats, and also got to experience Japanese people in holiday mode, taking to the streets and having lots of fun.  Food stalls were everywhere - I was in heaven.

We did a lot of temple exploration when we were in Kyoto too - everything was pretty astounding, and I would love to go back.  Kyoto is also known for its food - the delicate, refined side of Japanese cooking.  While we did not stretch the budget for kaiseki, we did want to eat some tofu.  Kyoto is particularly known for fantastic tofu due to that quality of its water.  Now, I love tofu.  Whilst so many people turn their noses up at it, I say it’s all about knowing what to do with it.  This stuff soaks up other flavours so brilliantly.  However, I do also like the delicate flavour, and the variety of textures you get with tofu - from the silkiest curds, to springy and bouncy fried beancurd.  Yum.

I had done my research before I got to Kyoto, and Helen of World Foodie Guide had had a wonderful meal at Okutan, a specialist tofu restaurant.  This place is about 350 years old, and a real institution.  I couldn’t wait to eat there.

This meal turned out to be everything I wanted it to be.  Set over a number of rooms, you are ushered to a low table, where you sit cross legged on the floor.  Outside, the most wondrous view of a zen garden.  I automatically felt calm and relaxed.

We went for the hot tofu set meal.  I won’t try to describe everything in detail - I didn’t even know what everything was that we ate.  However, the uniting factor was such purity and delicacy of flavour across everything we ate.  Bliss.

First up, a almost porridge like bowl of tofu.  That sounds pretty vile, but I like it - comforting and nourishing. Alongside, one of my favourite dishes of the meal - a set black sesame tofu.  The flavour of sesame pervaded the tofu so wonderfully, with the light dressing cutting through.  This was delightful.

Next up, griddled skewered tofu glazed with yuzu. This tofu was almost cheese like in texture. Another beautiful dish, and so intensely pretty at the same time.  The zingy yuzu worked with the tofu beautifully.

Then out came the most dainty, beautiful tempura. That shiso leaf on the right was particularly gorgeous. Again, I was astounded by the quality of frying I encountered in Japan.

To top it all, the burner on the table was then switched on, and a pot of tofu in a light broth was brought out to simmer away on the table.  We helped ourselves, fishing out the tofu into our bowls, sprinkling with japanese seasoning and spring onions, and diving in.  This was a lesson in delicacy, letting the tofu speak for itself.  I loved it.  Alongside all this, we had some rice and pickles to finish off.

Another great meal - I couldn’t help but feel healthy and calm as I left Okutan.  A beautiful meal in wonderful surroundings.  If you find yourself in Kyoto, I urge you to go, and hopefully have a change of heart when it comes to tofu!

Details:

Okutan

Nanzenji. Just north of Nanzenji Temple’s main gate (the San Mon Gate), Eastern Kyoto

Price: reasonable (we paid £25-£30 each for the set meal with a beer each)