Sharmila on Food

Aumbry, Prestwich (Greater Manchester)

Ah, Manchester, so much to answer for.

Manchester is one of my favourite cities.  I’m biased, as I used to live there, still have a clutch of great friends there, and try and get up to visit a few times a year.  I generally try and get a few meals in when I do go up there, so try and follow the restaurant scene from afar.

Over the years, I’ve been quite critical of the city centre dining scene.  There are some great places in the surrounding area, but there have been few meals that have wowed me when it comes to anything very central.  Save for Red Chilli, and a clutch of other ethnic eateries, I’ve always found myself a little underwhelmed.  But that’s coming from someone who really really wants the restaurant scene to be brilliant - something to match the cultural heritage, and other great things about Manchester.

Well, now there is somewhere that I do think shows that brilliance and pleasure factor that I’ve been searching for for a long time (and please please shoot me down if I’m missing somewhere truly amazing - I’m always eager to try places out).  Admittedly, Aumbry is not in the city centre - it’s in Prestwich, on the road towards Bury that heads North out of the city.  It’s not too far out though, and I would urge anyone to take the trouble to go.

Maybe I was lucky, but this was a perfectly composed meal for me.  Great looking menu, lots of things I wanted to try, and no one around the table had food envy.  Now, how often does that ever happen?

To start, a creamy, deeply savoury amuse bouche of chicken liver parfait.  I found myself trying to get all the remains of this out of that little pot.

to accompany, some nice bread - nothing particularly memorable, but the two types of butter were great.

For my starter, I’d opted for the wild rabbit terrine, with rabbit liver mousseline and rowan jelly.  This was exemplary - the terrine was at room temperature for a start, but all of the elements of that terrine added up to something seriously tasty.  Again, the liver mousse was super creamy, packing a really flavourful punch.  My only quibble would be not enough bread to scoop up all of that gorgeous terrine, but the staff were so nice it was no trouble to get some more.

A main of poached wild turbot with kale, mussels and a butter sauce.  All I can say is this was just wonderful - moist, perfectly cooked fish, the irony freshness of the kale, plump, sweet mussels, all mingling in that butter sauce.  I would have licked my plate keen if I hadn’t been in such polite company.  This may seem a simple dish, but so often fish and mussels are overcooked - to have a dish that got it so perfectly right was a joy.

On to dessert, and it had to be the treacle tart with earl grey ice and lemon and tea cream.  This was a lovely dessert, but the highlight for me that the little teacup full of that lemon and tea cream - it tasted like the most luxurious form of teh tarik I’ve ever had.  I slurped that up like there was no tomorrow.

So, a meal that was a joy.  With a few glasses of wine, a cocktail on arrival and service, we paid £50 each.  I think that’s a steal for cooking of that quality, and you could definitely get away with paying less if you didn’t drink as much or down a martini when you got there.

I implore anyone up in that great industrial city to go.

Details:

Aumbry

2 Church Lane

Prestwich

M25 1AJ

0161 798 5841

Price: mid-range

http://www.aumbryrestaurant.co.uk/