Sharmila on Food

Sushi Daiwa, Tsukiji, Tokyo

This was Tsukiji visit take two.  We’d got up at 4:30am two days previously, ambled down there and then found it was shut for a holiday.  Doh.  Oh well, god bless jetlag, because that was the only way I was going to be able to get out of bed again at that ungodly hour.  So, Tsukiji is the fish market in Tokyo that people will tell you you have to see when you go to Tokyo.  I wasn’t about to be contrary so off we went to see the tuna auction.  My issues about seeing a fish that is being fished to extinction, being lined up to be sold in such vast quantities did come to the fore, I have to admit.  At the same time, it is a unique spectacle.  I can’t deny I feel conflicted on this issue.

Anyhow, another aspect of the fish market experience I did want to try is going for sushi at one of the many tiny sushi places that throng the market.  My Tokyo oracle, Jamie, had recommended Sushi Daiwa, stating their omakase selection was great with a few more off beat choices.  We managed to find this place, randomly, even though we were gearing ourselves up for a trek.  A 15 minute wait and we were in.  This place is tiny, with about 16 seats in total.  It’s not a place for lingering - you gets your sushi, devour, enjoy and then you’re kind of out.

Now, I am not one of life’s wallflowers when it comes to eating. I pay little heed to suggested times for eating certain foods (case in point - I would happily eat anything spicy at any time of day).  Moreover, I’m pretty cavalier when it comes to issues of street food and associated food poisoning perils.  So, I really didn’t have any issue with eating a load of sushi at 6am.  However, when I got down to it, I have to admit my stomach did moan a bit.  I really wasn’t feeling my best, and therefore, this was an eating experience where I found myself enjoying it, but not having the revelatory experience I was expecting.  This was a shame really - this was amazingly fresh fish.  Anyway, it was still good.  Maybe I felt a bit let down by the surprising weakness my stomach appeared to be displaying.

So, what did we have?

First up - some meltingly beautiful toro.  Yes, this was melt in the mouth heaven. Alongside, I think, some white fish of some sort?  Also great.  A wonderful start - the rice here is amazing.

Sea urchin.  Yes, a heap of sea urchin at 6am.  I love sea urchin.  I have to admit, I don’t love it as much at 6am.  The sweet omelette was nice, as was the squid.

Next, some assorted maki filled with tuna and salmon - gorgeous.

My husband then bought a beer.  I had some.  My stomach grumbled.

And then finally, some identifiable fish - a lovely, snappy texture.  And then some of the most tender eel I have ever had.  My stomach agreed - eel at 6am is okay, it seems.

Alongside all this, a brilliant example of miso soup, with a heap of clams nestling in there.  Lovely.

So, what was my take on the experience?  All of this fish was amazing, the attention to the rice was fabulous.  I’m glad I went to tsukiji and Sushi Daiwa  However, I will have to admit - sushi so early in the day was a challenge for me.  Curse my stupid constitution.